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Do Fashion Houses No Longer Need Designer Stars? Post Superstar Era

2010/6/19 11:47:00 50

Within a week, Emanuel Ungaro, Herm s and Alexander McQueen three fashion houses announced new designers, none of them famous.

People can not help but wonder: in the past few years, we have never ushered in the new Marc Jacobs or Tom Ford.

Do fashion houses no longer need designer stars?

Or is it that with the passing of McQueen, the era of stars coming out is gone forever?

On Tuesday May 25th, Emanuel Ungaro announced that British designer Giles Deacon will be the director of brand design.

The fashion house, which was built in high quality custom clothes, has been on a detour since its founder Ungaro retired in 2004. In the past year, it has been a failure of decision making and a bad year. Its brand CEO, men's wear and women's wear designers, and Lindsay Lohan, an art consultant who once caused great disturbance, have left.

Can the new appointment bring a turning point for the brand that was predicted to be closed this year?

On Wednesday, May 26th, Herms announced the seven years of women's wear.

Design Director

Jean PaulGaultier ends the partnership.

Since then, Gaultier has been able to concentrate on running its own brand name - Herms owns 45% of the brand.

And his successor is called ChristopheLemaire.

Before that, his old club was the sports brand Lacoste.

What made Herms make up his mind to replace the fashionable naughty boy with a low-key designer who lacks the experience of luxury fashion design?

On Thursday, May 27th, Gucci group announced that Alexander McQueen's new design director candidate has been confirmed that McQueen's right-hand Sarah Burton did not accidentally succeed.

Burton has been designing the brand of women's clothing for 10 years, and after McQueen committed suicide, she hosted the 16 design of his last series.

Before, on the Internet, fashion bloggers have chosen Gareth Pugh as the best successor to McQueen. Obviously, Gucci group's decision-makers differ from them.

Jonathan Akeroyd, President of fashion house, said that Burton is brilliant and "has a deep understanding of McQueen's design concept".

It is reported that Burton is about to launch a pre-season series this month, and then released its first spring summer series in October this year.

Can she lead the brand into a new era?

Changing designers in fashion houses is not uncommon today.

But in just a week, three famous fashion houses announced new designers, and the news density was somewhat remarkable.

Suzy Menkes, Fashion Critic of the International Herald Tribune, believes that this reflects a new strategy for luxury brands to adapt to the post crisis era.

Fashion house's "affordable choice"

Karl Lagerfeld is still a white Chinese dress, active in his own video clip, "Remember Now".

John Galliano made a 1 minute curtain call in the early spring issue of Christian Dior.

Marc Jacobs, in order to promote the "Bang" of its men's perfume, does not hesitate to appear in the naked eye and shoot advertisements.

Star designers are still active in the stage of fashion, but in recent years there is no new name to join them.

After more than two years of economic crisis, sales and profits of major brands are getting warmer.

It's too early to celebrate the celebration, but most brands have survived the most difficult period.

The luxury industry has not been terminated. It is the age of star designers.

Of course, although the Internet has become a battleground for fashion houses, the social media such as blogs, Twitter and Facebook are receiving more and more attention. Designers' creativity is undoubtedly the lifeblood of the brand.

The difference between ten years ago is that the new designer can no longer change the brand's established route arbitrarily, and the brand is no longer allowed to spend on financial expenditure.

Twenty-first Century

Luxury goods

The representative of the business philosophy is not KarlLagerfeld, who was hired in Chanel in 1983, nor the John Galliano stationed in Dior in 1996, but Christopher Bailey of Burberry.

His current title is "chief creative officer", which is different from the general "creative director". This title includes his various duties in Burberry: buyer, brand manager, information technology reformer, advertising creative director, online business director, and design director.

Burberry recently announced its annual net profit of 81 million pounds and sales of 180 million pounds, which is a reversal of the previous fiscal year's losses of up to 6 million pounds.

However, in the 6.6 percentage point increase in sales, the most outstanding achievement is not the Burberry double breasted windbreaker, but the various accessories including handbags.

The practice of new releases in the two quarter of a year has long been out of date.

Today's fashion houses have to launch at least four series a year, plus more and more special series and more and more fine products.

How much help does a celebrity designer come to T twice a year for brand management? Luxury brands are now looking for a designer who plays the role of brand global ambassador and can help the brand develop in an all-round way.

In the recent two times, Gucci and Valentino unanimously promoted the nameless Frida Giannini and the design combination MariaGrazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli from the original design team - neither of them is a graduate of Saint Martin Design Institute.

Even the bold British pop star GilesDeacon is a steady choice for Ugaro, even more than Lindsay Lohan.

Deacon, 40, has a sense of advanced customization in his own brand design. If he wants to help Emanuel Ungaro revive its glorious tradition, he should have great potential.

As Louis Vuitton's star designer, Marc Jacobs has been working for the Dong family for 13 years.

Recently, to celebrate

brand

At the opening of flagship store on Bond Street in London, he held a mini garment exhibition on the two floor of the store.

But in addition, the 1500 square meter shop can not see the shadow of the clothes completely.

From handbags to suitcases, from high jewellery to fashion accessories, from scarves to picnic pads, playing cards and other luxury gifts, this shop, called "luxury Collector's Mansion", is full of all kinds of Vuitton accessories.

The signal is clear: a team led by a creative designer is still essential if money is needed, but today's creative team must adapt to work in modern offices filled with internet cables rather than hiding in their ivory towers.