The Fashion Aroused By The Revolution Of 1911 Is To Improve The Cheongsam &Nbsp And Breathe In To Button Up The Buttons.

Changing clothes, not only for fashion

When did China's "fashion" start? Undoubtedly the 1911 Revolution.

A political revolution led to the collapse of the feudal dynasty in China and the elimination of the "clothing hierarchy" that had been stubbornly in the minds of the Chinese people for thousands of years. The tradition of "Zhao Ming" and "Wei Wei" has been out of date, and traditional harsh ethics and weathering ideas have been completely buried. Changing clothes is the pursuit of equality, freedom and new life. What is intriguing is that the democratic revolution of 1911 is not very thorough, but its dress revolution is quite determined.

　　 Man's suit Become "the appearance of revolution"

To eliminate old customs, the first thing is to cut out the long braids that symbolize the political rule of the Qing Dynasty. Then, the government formulated the first batch of "Regulations on service" in the Republic of China.

In July 1912, the Senate announced its system of service. Clothing is divided into three categories: (1) western style dress, (two) uniform, (three) regular wear. The dress is pure American style. The official uniform is specially made in Chinese style and imitation western style. Regular clothing is a little bit like Chinese ancient system, but it is a little flexible, but it is long and shank, so that it can boot. "

In the upper class, Western-style clothes become a popular "official uniform". From the photos taken at that time, we can see the change of Western-style clothes in official occasions. In December 29, 1911, a provisional presidential election was held in Nanjing, and 17 provinces represented. There were more than 40 participants, 60% wearing long gowns and 40% Mandarin vests. In February 18, 1912, second temporary presidential elections were held. After the meeting, Cai Yuanpei led Yuan Shikai's special mission to Beijing. In the group of 11 non military personnel, 8 people wear suits. In March 25th of the same year, Prime Minister Tang Shaoyi went to Nanjing to receive provisional government. Sun Zhongshan took a group photo with the president and Tang Shaoyi. There are more than 40 people in the picture. Only a few people wear traditional clothes, most of them wear Western clothes. Western-style clothes became the necessary "revolutionary appearance" in this period.

Foreign dress triggering "national goods movement"

The "rules of service" boldly introduced western style garments to China. The tuxedo was identified as a ceremonial dress with western style white shirts, vest, black tie, white gloves, black top hat and black lacquer leather shoes. However, because of the fact that the imported materials are used mostly, the dumping of foreign goods in China has led to the unsalable sales of domestic silk and other fabrics. In January 12, 1912, Ta Kung Pao published the article "Yi Yi takes the preservation of domestic products as the essentials": "easy to serve and not easy to be expected." Our people rely on silk for life, and can they abandon their materials? "

"Declaration" published in May 19, 1912 the Hankou gentry business community launched the Hankou goods maintenance association article: "anyone who enlists, does not wear foreign hat as the first duty." In order to publicize the idea of patriotic buying of domestic products, the Hankou saves the nation to the point that somebody has broken the blood book, the scene is very solemn and stirring: the Republican Party of Wuhan opened the conference, attended the meeting more than one thousand people, followed the county Cheng Jun Yu Pei to speak on the stage, the foreign clothing hat sells well the entire country's harm, after that, cut the knife to cut the finger big book "please use the national product" four words, the blood dripping.

Zhongshan suit button deducts the three people's principles

There are different opinions on the origin of the Chinese tunic suit. One of them is that Mr. Sun Zhongshan went to Vietnam to organize the Chinese Chamber of Commerce in 1902. He joined the western-style clothes shop set up by Huang Longsheng in Guangdong Province. In order to save foreign exchange and reflect China's national conditions, Huang Longsheng designed a beautiful, simple and practical Chinese dress. Huang took the Western European and Japanese style of clothing as the reference, and designed the stitching combining with the popular "business" clothing and student clothes of the overseas Chinese in Hanoi.

When Mr. Zhongshan wore the suit, he said, "this kind of clothing is good looking, practical, convenient and economical. Unlike western style clothes, it must also be hard to collar, except for shirts and shirts, which are mostly imported and expensive." At the same time, the Chinese tunic suit is also endowed with any political meaning that no costume has ever had in history: four pockets symbolize the four dimensions of the country, that is, propriety, righteousness, honesty and shame; the five buttons symbolize the political system of the separation of powers from the Republic of China, namely, political power, legislative power, judicial power, examination power and supervisory power. The three buttons on the cuffs represent the three people's principles of nationality, civil rights and people's livelihood.

In April 1929, the twenty-second State Council decided to decide on the uniform uniform dress Ordinance: "take the Chinese tunic suit." In this regard, the Chinese tunic suit was promulgated by the national government and became a legal uniform. {page_break}

Improved cheongsam inhaled to button up buttons.

Although the banners of "flower pots bottom" and "horseshoe sleeves" disappeared, Qipao still existed. In the early years of the Republic of China, women's clothing still maintained the shape of the lower skirts of their jackets, and the government also stipulated that women's dresses should be upper apron skirts. Influenced by the Western way of life, women realize the beauty of "curvilinear". When cutting clothes, they change the chest, shoulders, waist and hips of the traditional dress perfectly.

In the people's impression, Shanghai was at the forefront of fashion. But in fact, the "Miss Xiguan" in Guangzhou, who was dressed up and dressed up, is the fashion leader. Qipao is also the first to appear in Guangzhou. "No matter the wives and ladies of the dignitaries, or the students or housewives, they all like cheongsam......" The cheongsam worn by Miss Xiguan is mostly embroidered silks and satin. Cheongsam waist waist and pleated pleats to highlight female curves. This is the improvement of traditional cheongsam.

The biggest difference in improving cheongsam is to boldly outline the outline of human body. As the waist of the robe keeps shrinking, the curve of the woman's body is all out at last. "Some cheongsam waistlines are so narrow that they have to suck up to button up." In addition, the length of cheongsam was shortened and the cuffs were narrowed. The traditional cheongsam wears trousers, and the slit is very shallow. Only the embroidered trouser legs can be seen. Underwear and stockings are in the cheongsam of the Republic of China, and legs are exposed at the slit.

Fashion girls are fashionable.

In addition to Western cosmetics, Chinese women began to spray perfume and even lipstick, according to the New York Times. Hairstyles are also beginning to deviate from tradition. "Women's hairstyle revolution is no less than that of men." Women began to cut short hair, and even began to perm.

At the same time, Chinese women began to wear leather shoes. "Even the most powerful high-heeled shoes, they can walk easily and flexibly, and take swift steps." Western style stockings became popular all the time. European and American businessmen are busy designing new styles to meet the urgent needs of millions of Chinese golden lotus feet.

By the end of the 20s, underwear was introduced into China from overseas. At first, Chinese women were not used to it. Movie stars became the forerunners of fashion experience. Ruan Lingyu is one of the earliest Chinese women wearing "Yi milk". On the screen, she wore a perfect body curve after wearing the cream and wearing cheongsam, which amazed the women. "Righteous milk" gradually spread in big cities such as Shanghai and Guangzhou.

The last empress Wan Rong

The most fashionable Empress

According to records, photography was introduced to the court in the late nineteenth Century. Wan Rong's cheongsam has a large number of photos. It has a detailed record from the early Qing banner robe of the flag girl to the new cheongsam that was popular later. From her photos, we can comb out the general context of cheongsam changes in the Qing Dynasty.

The early photos of Wan Rong are both wide and long with their robes and sleeves. The difference between them is that they are more elegant and luxurious, more decorative and more meaningful. In the photos of Wan Rong, there are also some cheongsam used for everyday casual wear, which is elegant, simple and simple. Casual dress Qipao has a shorter length, you can see white socks and embroidered shoes. Cheongsam plus cloak (also known as "cloak") can be called "Beijing style". The cloak has a fine pleat along the collar, and the edge is rolled with "thread of fragrance". It looks exquisite and elegant.

In the later fashion photographs of Wan Rong, there were western style costumes, and there were many cheongsam skirts that followed the trend. The hairstyle changed the early "Dala wing" and the high temples of the monotonous, sometimes shawl hair, and sometimes the perm, all followed the fashion.

- expert comments

Accept new life and accept new clothes naturally.

"After the revolution of 1911, the implementation of new clothing is a kind of initiative and guidance, which is more mild and natural than the braid and the feet, but the effect is even more obvious." Zhu Yong, author and writer of 1911, said: "the change of clothing is actually the expression of people's inner attitude. When we accept new ideas, we are willing to live in a new way of life. The fashion trend is better than the" one size fits all "decree.

The word "rank" has the highest frequency in feudal society, and everything in daily life and food and clothing can not be leapfrogging. "After the revolution of 1911, the imperial power did not exist. The people started this era. What clothes to wear became" personal privacy ", and no one had the right to interfere. Zhu Yong said, "advanced intellectuals who accept Western ideas like to wear suits, but you can't say that Lu Xun, who wears only long gowns in his life, is an old-fashioned old man." Even the word "mashup" can be traced back to the year of 1911. "You can wear leather shoes under your long sleeves, and you can wear another suit outside."