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Yang Pengyun, A Fashion Designer Of Hong Band, Is A Man Of Clothing.

2013/8/19 13:16:00 69

Red Band Fashion Designer Yang Pengyun Fashion Designer

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" Yang Pengyun was praised by the British "a target=" _blank "href=" //www.sjfzxm.com/ "designer" /a ".

August 15th, the farewell ceremony of Yang Pengyun's old man was held at the funeral parlour in Hangzhou.

he lay quietly, wearing his own design and tailored tunic, just as he was calm and calm before his life.

the 14 year old went to Shanghai to study art, then opened shop in Zhongshan Road, Ningbo, named Ningbo, and even the whole Zhejiang Jinlong < a target= "_blank" href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/" > clothing < /a > shop owner, red gang < a target= "_blank" href= "href=" > "fashion designer". The fashion designer went away, at the age of 96.

but he will always stay in the world with his painting and calligraphy, which he is good at, and the spirit of Hong Bang that he has inherited and created.

in the eyes of Yang Pengyun's children, his father left them not only exquisite tailoring skills.

Being dignified and tolerant, it is the greatest heritage for them to "behave like a garment".

1. the town of tailor goes out of the "red gang successor" /p >

1931, Nanjing West Road, Shanghai, HSBC dress shop.

Yang Pengyun, P, aged 14, was led by his father for the first time to come to Shanghai, a famous western style dress shop.

< < a target= "_blank" href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/ > > clothes < /a > can be made this way!" this young man who was born in the countryside of Fenghua was accustomed to wearing her blouses, pleated trousers, Qipao and mandarin gown.

Yang Pengyun was born in 1917 in the West Village of Yang Jia Xi Tau Village in Fenghua. At that time, more than half of the village's tailors were tailors, and his family was no exception.

Father Yang Heqing worked diligently all his life, and supported his family by relying on his hand made skills.

P, like all tailors in the village, Yang Heqing was originally a "Chinese tailor", which is now called "Qipao" and "Mandarin clothes" and so on.

At the beginning of the last century, the western style tailors began to appear in the concession of a few large cities such as Guangzhou and Shanghai. Yang Heqing smelled the smell of the "clothing revolution" and left home. He went to sea cucumber to learn skills, and learned to "pedal a foreign car" (a version of the sewing machine that year) and began to enter the ranks of the "red gang tailors".

the origin of the name "Hong Bang tailor" is said to be because the first generation of western style tailors are mostly foreigners. These foreigners have "red hair" on their faces. Local people call them "red haired men" and "red haired embryos". For these reasons, these tailors are called "red hair tailors" and "red tailors" and will follow these foreign tailors to learn western style clothes collectively as "red tailors".

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the red gang tailors are generally divided into three groups, namely, Luo, Japanese and Euramerican. The main western tailors were mainly Russian, Japanese and European and American.

After P, Yang Heqing went to Japan again and started a "red gang" in Tokyo. Not only did he earn more money, he also learned the authentic Japanese Gang skills.

"my grandfather has a good eye. He can see that one day western style clothes will replace Chinese clothes."

Yang Longfei, Yang Pengyun's eldest son, said.

in Yang Longfei's memory, Grandpa's wise choice at that time was often heard by his father. Although the Chinese tailors were still under control, more and more foreigners poured into the concession of big cities like Shanghai and Guangzhou.

"P": the western-style suit and trousers of the foreigner have brought novelty and seduction to the stiff Chinese clothes. The Chinese have begun to follow suit. The tailoring of the western style trousers is very tight. It is very difficult for a Western-style clothes to be found. Some foreigners are very convenient to take the tailors around. Some foreign tailors are able to see this business opportunity and run to the concession shop.

Chinese are very good at imitating and learning.

At first, most of the concession were foreign tailors, and there were fewer Chinese tailors. This is the first generation of Hong Kong tailors.

After P Yang Heqing decided to go out to study, the spring of Western tailoring came.

Yang Heqing is one of the first generation of Hong Bang tailors in China, with many people living in Fenghua, Ningbo.

They took the way of pro, pro, neighbour and village to form a prairie fire. They not only developed the western style clothing industry in Ningbo, but also inherited the skills of Hong Gang tailors.

Therefore, some people misread the "red gang tailor" as "a tailor", which is also considered to be "right and wrong".

Yang Pengyun, when he was 14 years old, Yang Heqing, who was studying in Japan, came back specially to send him to Shanghai to learn western tailors.

he stayed.

Yang Pengyun sometimes mentioned the hardships of being an apprentice in those days with his children and grandchildren.

At that time, there were few opportunities for formal learning. Most of them were odd jobs such as pulling bellows and skein wraparound. They used to buy cigarettes for their instructor, buy rice and pour pot at night.

Learning art is just providing an environment for you to see how the master makes clothes.

however, Yang Pengyun, a talented and intelligent man, used only two years to get a clear understanding of the skills and crafts of European and American dresses.

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> Yang Pengyun in her later years.

"be generous and treat others."

People's life is like making clothes. Different people have different personality, physique and cultural differences. As a tailor, they have to adapt, understand, and treat themselves with their own personality.

2. when Jinlong dress was like "YOUNGOR" /p.

16 years old. Yang Pengyun returned to Ningbo to inherit his ancestral estate after his study. His father Yang Heqing taught him all his life's hands-on, whether it was robe or western style dress, and Yang Pengyun cut and stitched it all freely.

2 years later, he and his father rented a very small facade in Lingqiao Road, Ningbo. The shop name is "Yonghe". P

Although the location is a bit biased, but the father and son are skilled, hardworking and honest, and the reputation of the shop soon starts, and the business is very prosperous.

Less than P, the father and son accumulated funds and rented a large storefront in Zhongshan Road to Jinlong clothing store.

At the age of 30, Yang Pengyun began to run the clothing store in full.

that is his best year and the most glorious period of Jinlong clothing store.

granddaughter Yang Xuefen told reporters that "Golden Dragon" might be more famous than the current YOUNGOR.

Grandpa occasionally talks about details: the clothing store has three floors, the first floor is the place of business, receiving, proofing, sampling and displaying samples; the third floor of the two floor is a workshop; there were more than 20 Turner at the time; there was a patio behind it as a dormitory and kitchen.

The clothing store was equipped with glass windows, which was very stylish at that time.

In addition to the display samples, Yang Pengyun has personally designed and drawn samples.

Jinlong clothing store has exquisite workmanship and various styles. It is totally unmatched in all of Ningbo. Ningbo's high-end suits are almost entirely covered by them.

The suits of Mao Maoqing, the famous uncle of Ningbo - Jiang Jieshi, were all made in their shop.

early Jinlong clothing store is not only a place to make clothes, but also a place for Hong Gang tailors to exchange and study.

At that time, the teachers in the industry, and the tailor of Shanghai's profession, went to Ningbo to go to Jinlong clothing store to exchange, discuss and discuss.

When it comes to technology, Yang Pengyun always has no reservations.

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at the same time, Jinlong clothing store is the first choice for rural neighbors to earn their living in the countryside.

Whether he knows or not, he will come to Yang Pengyun if he says he is from Fenghua.

When he met with difficulties, he also provided room and board for free, and he was willing to stay as apprentice.

Many young people have found their way to make a living here.

They went to Shanghai after their studies, and some of them opened their own businesses and became bosses. Some of them became big shopkeepers in clothing stores.

Jinlong clothing store, though not a school, is also "full of peaches and plums".

During the Anti Japanese War, the Japanese spread plague in Ningbo, Ningbo, especially in the poor areas along the north of the Yangtze River. The plague was dispersed, and a large number of villagers were infected with plague.

At that time, the national government tried to prevent the spread of the plague, and forced the plague patients to burn.

During that time, Yang Pengyun put down his business in the shop and started organizing shareholders and clothing industry colleagues to pay for disaster relief goods and medicines, and to help the victims in the slums.

in Yang Longfei's memory, father is not only a successful Hong Bang tailor, but also a good man who is honest, kind and compassionate.

To this day, he still remembered that his father often taught them what they said, "behave like a gentleman, like wearing clothes, wear them on the body and walk upright, upright, flat and unbiased."

3. knowing calligraphy and painting made him a "cultural tailor" /p >

In the old age, in the tailoring world, most of them are illiterate. They can write their names well. After one or two years of private school, they are considered to be literate. The culture of primary schools is the "intellectual elite" of tailors.

Yang Pengyun not only went to private schools, but also received art education.

At the age of 22, he also went to "wartime training school" with some "civil servants" for senior high school culture class.

This is very rare in the thirty or forty generation of tailors in the last century. He is the first and the only one in Zhejiang.

When he was engaged in the clothing industry, he spent a considerable part of his energy in clothing design. He improved the paperboard layout. He used to make a set of clothes in a piece of material. In his hand, two pieces of material could be cut into two sets of clothes. Besides, he could also cut out a suit of clothes, save money and save money, and was very popular.

in the age of scarce materials and strict economy, "changing the old to the new" has become a major feature of the times.

After several days of meditation and repeated practice, Yang Pengyun was stunned by changing a long gown into a set of Chinese tunic suit, which became a creative labor achievement and caused quite a stir.

At that time, the Zhejiang Provincial Light Industry Department also asked him to go to Hangzhou to preach and demonstrate.

Yang Pengyun's fame has brought more opportunities for him.

In 1958, he was sent to the Beijing central craft Academy of Fine Arts for further studies, including painting, design and costume history.

P returned to Hangzhou from Beijing in 1961. He went to Zhejiang Academy of Fine Arts (The China Academy of Art) two times a week, until he retired, he still took calligraphy and painting as his companion.

In the meantime, he received instructions from Pan Tianshou, Wu Fuzhi, Deng Bai and other Chinese painting masters, and his calligraphy and painting skills were greatly improved.

During P's three years of further education, he has been studying how Chinese ancient clothes blend better with his suits.

At that time, the leaders of the Ministry of light industry and the Federation of handicraft industries attended major events, including going abroad.

P, where he almost became a university professor.

At that time, there were 53 students, most of whom were 30 to 35 years old, and only Yang Pengyun was over 40 years old.

At the end of his studies, the teacher in charge found him, saying that he had the experience of clothing practice, and asked him to teach the clothing practice class to his classmates.

Yang Pengyun, who was originally a former student, was a little scared when he was going to be a teacher for others. Fortunately, he had many years of tailoring experience. He had taught lessons in Hangzhou before, and he finished this extra task with ease. Moreover, the course was very good for P.

Zhang Ding, vice president of the Department of clothing in China Central Academy of Fine Arts, found him and asked him to stay as a teacher and teach Fashion practice lessons.

Vice president Zhang said, the college is going to add new clothing department and start enrollment next year.

If left, the housing will be arranged in the expert building, according to the professorship.

this really excited Yang Pengyun for a while.

University is his dream. Now he wants to be a professor in a university. This is a good thing he never thought of before.

But it didn't take long.

His new professorship has not been approved. His professor's dream has failed. He has returned to work in the Zhejiang Institute of Arts and crafts and is engaged in the clothing counselling work in the whole province.

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4. regrettable mistake life regret

he thought that he could have studied in this way so as to make more contributions to the inheritance and development of the red gang tailors, but the next Cultural Revolution completely abandoned his learning.

this havoc is also inevitable for the garment industry.

The dress that was once popular was considered revisionism, and the suit was considered to be a bourgeois way of life. The cheongsam was labeled with the feudal legacy. The slightly fancy clothes were labeled as "weird clothes".

when people wore clothes, they had "old three" and "old three colors".

"Lao San San" refers to cadres' suits, Chinese tunic suits and people's clothing; while "old trichromatic" refers to blue, gray and black.

Washing old military uniform and military uniform is also a fashionable fashion style.

In this era, Yang Pengyun's tailor's road seemed to have come to an end.

not only that, but during the cultural revolution, Yang Pengyun also somehow became a "counter revolution" and was taken "high hat" to be criticized.

The scene of Yang Longfei P is still vivid: his father wears a sign of "capitalists", lowering his head and kneeling on a long stool. His fist falls on his back and head like raindrops.

all of this, my father silently took up his work and was sent to work. He came back from work still laughing and hiding from the whole family as if nothing had happened.

It was not until the "big character POSTER" was pasted at home that the mother knew what had happened.

She could not bear the injustice and depression, and died in a few years.

Many years later, Yang Longfei began to listen to his father about the real reason why he was approved. It was because of the fact that he was in charge of Jinlong clothing store before liberation.

At that time, Jinlong clothing store prospered and had many visitors.

I don't know when it became an underground traffic secret point of four Mingshan New Fourth Army.

After being betrayal, the secret contact point was destroyed, and many underground workers were arrested.

Yang Pengyun, who was kept in the dark, was also in jail.

After many twists and turns, this is the end of the relationship.

P! Unexpectedly, 20 years later, he was implicated in it and turned into a "counter revolution".

despite his unjust injustice, Yang Pengyun firmly believed that he was innocent. He fought against the absurd criticize with magnanimity and finally came to the end.

After rehabilitating, Yang Pengyun became a skilled worker in the garment factory again.

Less than P, he rarely mentioned that crazy history.

His understanding is that let bygones be bygones. It is useless to blame too much. The most important thing is to do well in the future and take a good road.

in Yang Longfei's eyes, this is the tolerance of his father.

Father often says, be generous and treat others.

A man's life is like making clothes. Different people's personality, physique and cultural differences are very large. As a tailor, he has to adapt, understand, and not be able to treat himself with his own personality.

In August 13th, Yang Pengyun left the world peacefully. His face was still so gentle and dignified, which made his children feel relieved. P

Yang Pengyun had some regrets before he died. He left some regrets: he had superb skills of the red gang, but he only used it in the years of Jinlong clothing store. P

After liberation, we should show our talents. We can save materials and practise economy.

During his advanced studies at Academy of Fine Arts, he hoped to become a professor in the clothing industry.

After the reform and opening up, the garment industry ushered in a golden opportunity for development. But he was in retirement and retired at home.

hopefully, to another world, he will no longer have any regrets.