Yamamoto Teruji: Anti Japanese Fashion Designer In Japan

The word "anti fashion" is the most appropriate word that we can describe Yamamoto Teruji (Yohji Yamamoto).

In his most famous shows, you can hardly see the beautiful models stepping on "hate the sky".

He likes to use fat, old people and hippies as the protagonists of the show.

They will not walk catwalks on T, but drink, sing and dance over there.

Yamamoto Teruji wanted to show his clothes to people in their real chatting and laughing.

Recently, Yamamoto Teruji came to Beijing to take this opportunity to share his rebellious life with us.

Yamamoto Teruji was born in Yokohama, Japan in 1943. Her mother was a tailor in Tokyo. She helped her mother tailor business when she was 17 years old.

In 1972, he set up his own design studio. He held a fashion show in Paris with Wakubo Rei in 1981 and entered the international fashion circle.

Among the many international fashion designers we have interviewed, like Yamamoto Teruji, is almost nothing to share with people about his design life.

He was regarded by the Japanese as an overavant-garde, and was regarded as wearing a typical Japanese costume in Paris.

He never caters to the fashion design, and likes to go against it, but he is regarded as a trend beyond fashion.

It makes people wonder what made Yamamoto Teruji {page_break} today.

Take off in a strong black.

Yamamoto Teruji's entry into the fashion industry is a story of the great era of Japan.

Japan was hit by nuclear bombs in 1945 when Yamamoto Teruji was just two years old.

His father died in the war, and the widowed mother was a tailor.

After graduating from the law department of Keio University in 1966, Yamamoto Teruji did not go directly to work.

When the Japanese economy declined, his mother raised him alone and needed a lot of work to maintain his life.

He studied crafts in a tailor's shop opened by his mother's friend, and worked as a tailor for some large families.

In 1972, Yamamoto Teruji set up his own studio in Tokyo, and his black line multi-layer three-dimensional cut garment has been quite successful in Japan.

But his real takeoff began in Paris in 1981.

This is his first fashion show in Paris. In those days, Paris was full of elegant Chanel and noble Louis Vuitton, and could hardly tolerate the impact of foreign fashion on them.

The end of Yamamoto Teruji's show led to an uproar in the fashion circle of Paris.

However, his impression of the show was not so good. He recalled with interest: "many newspapers in Paris used the word" Davy "in Japanese, meaning that I went back to Japan, and I also saw some newspapers in my head and a big fork on my costume, and probably told me," we don't need your clothes, "but I didn't feel very frustrated.

However, the memory of the guardian's fashion editor Brenda Polan has made it impossible for us to think about the grand occasion at that time: "before that, Paris had never seen such a black, bold and loose garment. They aroused controversy over traditional beauty, elegance and gender."

The takeoff shows Yamamoto Teruji in the western fashion circle to gain a foothold.

What we saw from his design is indeed the most profound anti fashion effect.

Later, when he designed men's clothing, he continued this style.

The men's casual wear of Y&y brand line is advantageous to the free combination, and matches the medium price strategy, has won the great success.

It can be seen that the rebellion spirit has always appeared in Yamamoto Teruji's design.

He even put the words "what is more boring than wearing rules" into his brand's Logo design.

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Anti fashion concept of life

Yamamoto Teruji's life may not always be plain sailing.

In October 2009, his clothing company applied for bankruptcy protection because the company had already been unable to repay its debts of up to 6 billion yen.

After that, investment companies came to help. After the company was reorganized, Yamamoto Teruji, the 66 year old founder and designer, remained in office.

The bankruptcy case shocked the international fashion industry.

But for Yamamoto Teruji, it was his careless personality that made his life grow big and full of fun.

When interviewed Yamamoto Teruji, he could feel that there was something gloomy in his bones.

His attitude towards life is exactly the same as the rebellion disclosed in his anti fashion design.

"I always think design is a gamble.

A piece of work, before the audience can see it, depends on luck to know whether it is popular or not. It's up to you to feel it's good or bad. Finally, you will never be recognized, you will never know it.

A clothing company may experience a quarterly failure, two quarter failures, but can persist for 30 years? For my own company, I am always scared, but I think I am lucky because my life is free. "

He said that in the early years, every time he returned to Paris from Japan, he had to fill out a form when he was entering the country.

"I always feel embarrassed to fill in the fashion designer.

I will write freelancers or students.

Because I know I am very lazy.

I am not good at doing deadline jobs.

If the time of the show and the time of the factory are determined, I don't think I can make a collection in my whole life, but unfortunately, I have become a designer and I have to live. "

Yamamoto Teruji said.

Perhaps in the fashion circle for too long, Yamamoto Teruji's attitude towards fashion is "whatever, whatever you like" so indifferently.

In March 12th last year, Yamamoto Teruji held an exhibition of 30th anniversary Yohji Yamamoto commemorative brand in Vitoria and Albert Art Museum in London. A young reporter rushed up to him and shouted excitedly, "Hello, I am your super fans!" Yamamoto Teruji replied with a cold face, "Oh."

His assistant was very embarrassed and said to him, "Say something!" he turned his head in a funny way and looked at his assistant and asked, "say what?"

This is actually Yamamoto Teruji's philosophy of life.

He said, "I also use subtraction constantly in my life. For example, giving me a dormitory and a bed, I think it is the ideal life.

I can watch TV, drink water and work in bed.

I don't even need a lot of luggage. I have a handbag. If I get tired of it, I will leave immediately. I am a person with no body. This is my way of thinking. I applied it to my costume design.

What he talked about was another little thing he talked about.

In the early 90s of last century, his friend Giorgio Armani once said to him, "come here and have a look at it. I sent my private plane to pick you up!" but Yamamoto Teruji refused him.

"I do not need grand ceremonies and extravagant life."

He said.

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The death of Oriental design

When it comes to Yamamoto Teruji, Wakubo Rei and Lssey Miyake can not be ignored.

These people have taken a firm foothold in western fashion circles, using labels like "Japan" and "East".

The three Japanese designers combine the western style of architectural design with the traditional Japanese dress tradition, so that clothing is not only a cover of the body, but a link between the three parties of the dress, the body and the designer.

Yes, if you search for these people on the Internet, many fashion websites will label them as "Japanese fashion designers".

In fact, they themselves did not flaunt themselves as Japanese style.

In the autumn of 1999, you can see the beautiful bonnet of Titanic in Yamamoto Teruji's new product release.

In the autumn and winter of 2001, Yamamoto Teruji released all the fashion series based on the Eskimo prototype and inspired by their life.

Wakubo Rei also gave his brand a French name.

However, we can not deny that Yamamoto Teruji has a strong Japanese style in fashion design.

Western men are still afraid of skirts. In the spring and summer Yamamoto Teruji men's clothing of 2012, we can find a broad skirt.

And these skirt pants are printed with old patterns and soft colors, which remind people of ancient Japanese warrior trousers.

With an elegant jacket and a cap, an improved image of the warrior warrior is instantly enriched.

Yamamoto Teruji himself was very careless when he talked about the issue of "nationality".

He mentioned that when he had a certain reputation, many people would tell him that his next series carries the hope of western fashion for Japanese designers.

Many Chinese fashion designers and garment enterprises are also like this. Once China's design goes on the international stage, they will flaunt the discussion of "finally competing for China's design, we carry the hope of Chinese design" and so on.

"In fact, when I was designing, I thought of my own favorite design, and I did not consider whether my design was Japanese or Paris style."

Yamamoto Teruji said.

Yamamoto Teruji's remark is indeed a loud slap to these people.

Originally, the thing of the nation is written in the blood of a man. When he is designing, working and doing things, he will embody the need to label unnecessary labels.