Monroe Is The Most Important Fashion Designer In Fashion Life.
This year is the fiftieth year of Monroe's withering, but her influence still affects magazine editors, modeling and fashion on red carpet.
Designer
People.
We can not help asking, who is the founder of Monroe's wardrobe?
No matter what a woman is wearing.
Short skirt
A suit, a sexy Cocktail Evening Dress with a pearl, or an elegant evening dress, Marilyn Monro knows how to focus his eyes and confidence on himself.
This year is the fiftieth year of Monroe's withering. Despite her misfortune in August 5, 1962, her influence still affects magazine editors, styling on red carpet and fashion designers.
We can not help asking, who is the founder of Monroe's wardrobe? The new book "fashion Monroe: Marilyn's in Fashion: The Enduring Influence of Marilyn Monroe", through the understanding of the actress's "Marilyn".
clothing
Influence, including an important role in her life.
Clothing design
Division.
From the Ceil Champan (1954 Monroe to Korea to condolence to the US army when wearing a water droplet shaped bead skirt), to Charles Lemaire (designed for Monroe in 1951 to participate in Aosta's black gauze evening dress), here selected Monroe's fashion life's most important eight fashion designers works, in order to provide readers.
William Travilla
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He is not
Latest fashion
Master, but his works are even more widely known.
As Marilyn Monroe's screen stylist, William Travilla designed the white shoulder dress with a very unruly skirt in the seven year itch. Monroe also wore the pink strapless dress and the golden pleat skirt in her other representative work, gentlemen love blondes, from the hands of Travilla.
For decades, these sexy uniforms have been reprinted countless times. Until recently, their creators finally came into the public eye, thanks to a newly published book called "dressing for Marilyn: how William Travilla shapes a Hollywood Idol".
The author Andrew Hansford takes Monroe's skirt as a clue to string up Travilla's career and life experience.
In 1920, Travilla was born in Losangeles.
In 1942, he was first involved in the Hollywood, first for several B - grade costumes, until 1949, finally with "the sword of the sword Don Juan" won Oscar little gold man, from then on.
When he met Monroe, he was the Fox Film Co's leading costume designer in the twentieth Century.
Travilla's 8 films starring Monroe
Design
From costume in 1953, from "how to marry a millionaire" to "bus stop" in 1956.
As for how the two people started to cooperate, Hansford wrote in the book that they met for the first time in Travilla's suite of Fox Film Co, when Monroe was half naked, her bikini straps seemed to be broken, and when Travilla met for the second time, Travilla caught a glimpse of Monroe's beautiful buttocks through a mirror.
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No matter how the narration is, there is an irrefutable fact that, as Monroe's costume designer, Travilla definitely knows the body of this mortal creature. No one knows more clearly about the location of the skirt in which he should pinch and slash to outline the curves of her bump.
Travilla's first collaboration with Monroe was "how to marry a millionaire". What really caused the sensation was "gentlemen love blondes".
It was this movie that allowed Monroe to sit on the throne of the Hollywood superstar.
At the beginning of the film, Monroe and Jane Russell's Scarlet sequins dress four. The skirt is laid on the thigh, and the V collar stays open to the waist. In order to meet the film censorship standard, Travilla puts them on the flesh color tights.
After that, Monroe's performance of "diamond is the girl's best friend" brings the whole movie to a climax. On stage, she wears a pink strapless dress, matching gloves of the same fabric, and wears a lot of diamond ornaments.
Now, when I mention Monroe, many people will come up with this image immediately, but in fact, the pink dress appeared in the movie is not the original intention of Travilla design.
His original design was even bolder: the fishing net tights were full of jewels, chandelier shaped crotch ornaments, and the velvet waffle with diamonds.
The model of the singing and dancing girl cost 4000 US dollars. At that time, it was a sky high price.
The reason is that when the film entered the post production, a Monroe's naked calendar was born. The nude photo was taken by her in 1949. At that time, Fawkes did not renew her contract with her.
In order to avoid criticism of Monroe's image, Fawkes asked Travilla to redesign a more conservative costume.
The new look looks elegant. It is made of pure silk and satin. It has a long skirt and a tailored fit. Monroe can still dance freely when he wears it.
The giant bow at the back is both stiff and soft, because it is filled with a large amount of ostrich hair and horse hair.
The bra is firmly wrapped around the waist to the chest to ensure that it will not go out of light. In 1950s, even Monroe could not expose the cleavage in public.
The design of Travilla is not easy to copy simply by watching a movie.
To achieve both dynamic and extreme personal effects, the need for a corset and an external double layer fabric is inseparable from the meticulous internal structure.
On the screen, the seemingly striking pink dress is actually closer to flesh color.
In 2008, when the dress was first shown to the public, it was considered a counterfeit.
As an experienced film costumes designer, Travilla of course knows that color printing will make the color more colorful, so deliberately chose a shallow fabric.
"After I die, don't cremate me and fold me."
Travilla's famous saying tells of his signature design: pleat.
This is another classic feature of "how to marry a millionaire". It is a metallic gold dress, with a pleated pleated sunbeam.
Travilla is sewing this dress on Monroe.
Unfortunately, in the movie, it only appeared for a few seconds.
Later, Monroe hoped to wear it to the Playboy prize presentation ceremony in 1953, but was rejected by Travilla. The reason is, "it is only suitable for movies. It is too sexy and too ostentatious in real life."
Besides, it doesn't even have a zipper. "
Finally, under Monroe's insistence, Travilla remade for her, on the condition that she had to comb her hair and walk like a lady.
On the next day of the award ceremony, Monroe boarded the headlines.
As to whether she is "like a lady", Joan Crawford, an actress, has only two words: "vulgar".
Who could have imagined that the most classic form of screen in the eyes of countless people, the white skirt that was roared by the roaring train in the seven year itch, was called "silly little skirt" by Travilla.
He made three pieces of "silly skirt", one of which was auctioned earlier this year, and the paction price was $4 million 600 thousand.
It is not hard to guess that the white skirt is not white. Travilla chose Ivory rayon crepe.
Of course, the upper part of the skirt also needs a metal skeleton to keep it in place, and the pleated parts of the skirt are hand finalized and sewn.
After Monroe died in 1962, Travilla left Fawkes for a while. After a while, she also published a series of ready-made clothes.
In 1967, he went back to his old business to design costume for the movie "doll Valley".
In the late 1970s to 1980s, Travilla turned to the television industry. He had nominated 7 Emmy Awards and won the trophy twice with "who will be Hao Sijia" and "Dallas".
In 1990, he died of lung cancer.
Travilla once said, "the clothes I made for Monroe are a gesture of love.
I admire her.
Monroe wrote this note to him: "Billy (William nickname)..."
Please make clothes for me forever, I love you, Marilyn. "
Many people believe that Monroe had a real affair with Travilla (Monroe's husband was New York's Yankees baseball star Joe di Maggio and Travilla was married).
However, everything, like the name of Travilla, has long been forgotten.
Until now, Hansford's new book has been unable to produce conclusive evidence.
Jean Louis
The French born designer, who was a little boy, had already drawn some manuscripts in some clothing houses in Paris.
When he moved to Niu Yu, he designed clothes for Duke of Windsor et al.
In 1943, he moved to Hollywood and eventually became the chief designer of Columbia film industry.
Jean Louis used to dress for actress Rita Hayworth in the 1948 movie "hot girl" (Ladies of the Chorus), wrapping Monroe in a tight evening dress and a chiffon skirt.
Ten years later, Jean Louis invited her to design clothes for her 1961 movie "The Misfits".
Oleg Cassini
The biggest achievement of the Russian - French American designer comes from Monroe's biggest rival, Jacqueline Kennedy.
Kennedy wears a cylindrical hat designed by Oleg Cassini and a Chanel suit, and takes the name of a family member for Cassini.
Monroe upgraded the design of Cassini to another level. Monroe accepted the award of the youngest actor box office award of the golden ball award in 1952, wearing Cassini design, and a beautiful cleavage under the beautiful necking line.
"I have always loved Cassini's taste and his imagination of women's clothes. My dress is no doubt listed here.
It gently sticks to my skin, goes to my knees and scatters out, just like Lillian Russell.
The actor said in an interview with modern television magazine.
Ceil Chapman
Ceil Chapman picked up the oblique cutting in 1957, which is widely known in the Women s Wear Daily. It is also called "absolutely the softest and best way to treat fabric."
Chapman's ruffle is very helpful to emphasize Monroe's curve, so that Monroe is wearing a low cut, Polka Polka Ivory skirt and miss Alabama photo when she set fire to everyone's desire, when Miss Alabama wore a conservative winding skirt.
When Monroe condoled to the US troops in 1954, he wore a dark purple cocktail dress and starlit on the stage.
In 1946, Don Loper ran a high-end skirt salon on the Sunset Strip in Losangeles, attracting a large number of senior customers, including various social celebrities and Hollywood stars.
Don Loper also plays costume design.
In these photos, Monroe appeared in the Salon magazine of Loper in 1951 in his elegant gray blue chiffon dress and Navy Chiffon clothes.
Charles Lemaire
In twentieth Century, Fawkes, the fashion designer of Charles, won the Academy Awards three times, including Monroe's 1950 About All About Eve. He also designed Monroe's most important costumes for her life, one of her award for best sound effects of comet beauty, and another black dress for 1954 when she married rugby player Joe DiMaggio.
Dorothy Jeakins
In 1948, the design of Dorothy Jeakins was sold on the shelves of I.Manin department store in Losangeles, and was valued by its director Victor Fleming, hoping that Dorothy and him would create the brand "Joan of Arc" together with him.
The designer retired behind the scenes after winning the Academy Award for best costume.
In the capacity of a free fashion designer, he has provided the concept of wardrobe for Monroe's two films. The two film is Niagara, 1953 and Let's s Make Love, 1960.
Elois Jenssen
Elois Jenssen and Edith Head, Dorothy Jeakins, Gile Steele and Gwen Wakeling were awarded the 1949 Academy Awards for the design of film "Samson and Wakeling".
Jenssen's collaboration with Monroe is confined to one production -- the 1952 We re Not Married. She designed Monroe's sleeveless shruby wedding dress.
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