Gustavo Lins, A New Designer

45 years old

At first, he was an architect in his native Brazil.

If he hadn't thought about the material quality of his tutor, he might still be building a house.

As a new designer, he once worked under John Galliano, Lecoanet Hemant and Jean-Paul Gaultier Couture, and worked with the workshop director of Cristobal Balenciaga.

In this process, he learned valuable experience and skillful tailoring skills, and let him know how to feel the most unique fabrics in the fashion industry cashmere, silk shirt, cool wool, wool crepe and soft sheepskin.

Finally, Gustavo Lins's design is low-key and luxurious.

In the first few years of his brand building, he also worked part-time for other big brands.

Design, he focuses on two-dimensional precise design, so that it can be displayed from the three-dimensional perfect.

His clothes only wear on the human body to show their charm, so everyone is suitable to be his model.

Exclusive interview

1 you were originally an architect. How did you choose clothes?

What is the occupation? Do you think the span from building a house to making clothes is large?

I am interested in fashion fashion after studying in architecture.

I like drawing very much, and I appreciate the drawings.

During my doctoral study in Barcelona, I studied tailoring and making jackets and trousers at the clothing Institute.

Gradually, I understand that clothing and architecture are inextricably linked.

In my doctoral dissertation, I suggested that the structure of clothing should be compared with the structure of houses.

These two areas have a lot in common.

Such as: roof / collar, building surface / clothing, door / pocket, gap, buttonhole / lock, key / mouth, etc.

After such a comparison, we began to look for architects tailoring and some architects.

After this research, my doctoral dissertation encouraged me to continue to develop into an engraver like an architect, but just a fashion designer.

The designers studied include: Lssey Miyake, Arthur al Arya, vione, Yamamoto Teruji.

The architects include: Adolf Luce, Henry van der de field and Russian styling artist Tatlin.

This work lasted for two years and worked for many advanced apparel and high fashion brands.

From this, I further deepened the technology of plate making.

2 what do you think of your design style? Will there be any shadow of architectural design?

What I am looking for is the sense of clothing design, the combination of fashion dress, shoulder width is not very loose, but it makes the shoulders comfortable.

Clothing needs to show design concept, and it needs to be easy to wear and comfortable.

3 you are not a professional, and you are not very young among new designers. What do you think your competitive edge is?

I used to study in fashion school in Barcelona, but I didn't continue because I didn't think the teaching level was good enough.

After finishing my studies in architecture and getting my doctorate, I think I need more professional skills.

So I conducted a professional internship at the French High Fashion Association.

After four months of internship, I have been able to cut out all the women's dresses, such as coats, dress skirts, western dress suits and so on.

Later, I applied these techniques to men's clothing design and production.

4 in design, how do you maximize this advantage?

When I started a series of designs, I would draw a lot of pictures, travel a lot of thoughts, go to concerts, watch movies, watch plays or operas, and so on, so ideas came up one by one.

It was at this time that I began to organize my thinking space.

I also need a good sleep, relax my brain and associate it freely.

5 as a clothing designer studying architecture, do you attach great importance to material selection in design?

Fabric is the starting point of my design.

In order to complete a perfect design, there must be very fine materials.

Everything depends on the fabric.

6 how do you look at the role that material plays in the design of clothing?

Fabric plays the most important role.

It gives us the most accurate positioning of the series design.

I like to combine soft material with plastic material.

7 what kind of material do you like best? Why?

I like silk, linen, cotton, wool, cashmere, calfskin or cowhide.

8 when you step into this industry, it may be very simple for you to draw a picture of clothing effect, but how to turn this blueprint into a real garment is not an easy task, because it includes various aspects such as plate making, cutting and so on. It is very strange to you. How did you deal with it?

My study started with tailoring.

I have to make the model myself.

I learn to make clothes in order to make it myself.

Architecture is different from the process of achieving control because it is not built by himself.

In clothing design, I can grasp this point.

9 most of your designs are grey tone. Do you prefer this kind of shade?

In gray, it actually incorporates all colors.

We can match gray with all colors.

For example, warm ash, cold ash, blue ash, yellow, red or green.

The use of a set of grey tones makes it impossible to create a series of works.

I come from a district in Brazil, where it is very cold: under the sunlight, all kinds of colors will be covered with a grey veil, which is why I will like grey, but I have not said the magic grey sky in Paris.